小瓜呆 murielee84

The first day I arrived in Hong Kong, I decided to visit “The Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum” in Sham Shui Po.

到香港的第一天下午，就決定先去深水步  的「李鄭屋漢墓博物館」走走。

(步有「土」字旁， 可我電腦上找不到)

(I thought I could use Mandarin to communicate in HK since I don’t speak Cantonese – I was wrong. Oh, well, body language worked, sometimes).

I had a map that actually included Sham Shui Po area but I didn’t realize that at that time. Now that I checked the map, it seemed that I walked northeast on Wing Lung St., and made a right on Castle Peak Rd., where she directed me to make a left on Tonkin St. and just left me.

當我看到一面中國風的圍牆時，想說應該是到了，進去後看到了假山以及乾掉的魚池，亭台中有幾個棋座，許多人圍著下棋品棋，我晃了一下，找不到看起來像是古墓的東西，這時，看到有另一個入口便拐進去。

看到的是一群年長者，坐在花園內休息，感覺上這附近是有老人院或醫院似的，帶著相機進去的我成了眾人行注目禮的對象，顯得格格不入，因為有些長者行動不便，有些坐輪椅，我決定不拍了；後來才知道，這是當局於1988年 12月在墓旁興建的「休憩花園」。

離開休憩花園，回到一開始進入的庭園，我走過亭台樓閣，還是沒找到漢墓博物館，卻聽到好多鳥聲，一個個鳥籠掛在枝頭上，或是放在地上，很多老先生 (也不是那麼老啦) 在聊天抽煙，他們有意無意的會看看我這個入侵者在幹嘛；我問了一下管理室的小姐，才知這是他們的生活一部分 – 到花園溜溜鳥。

 

從花園另一出口出來 (也是後來才知道這是「漢花園」，於1993年12月建成，園內設施仿照漢代風格建造)，原本要放棄找漢墓博物館，直接去西九龍中心算了，不知為何轉個向，竟看到博物館標示及入口處。 其實它就在漢花園的東北面，休憩花園的東南面，這三者緊緊相連，我只是沒找對門路。

* "Han Yard" that is right by the Museum &

漢花園入口之一

* The pattern on the Museum doors are very neat.

玻璃門別有設計

The displays in this small Museum introduce the geography, the discovery of the Tomb, and the establishment of the Museum. “Lei Cheng Uk” is made of 2 farming villages, Lei Uk (meaning most of their last name was Lei) and Cheng Uk (last name Cheng). It is believed that the earliest residents of these Hakka villagers first moved here during the Qing dynasty (same period as Crouching Tiger and Hidden Dragon). The villages of So Uk and Wong Uk were also in the vicinity.

博物館很小，介紹了李鄭屋、漢墓、以及博物館的緣起。 李鄭屋，是李屋村與鄭屋村的合稱，這兩村的客家族人說是於清朝年間遷入，附近還有蘇屋村與黃屋村。

The Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb was originally situated on the southern slope of a small hill stretching from the Eagle’s Nest. Between the slope and the waterfront, Sham Shui Po was to the south and Cheung Sha Wan was to the southwest. The Lei Uk and Cheng Uk were located at the foot of the hill.

李鄭屋漢墓所在地，原為尖山山脈向南伸展的小山南麓，其濱海處朝南為深水步，西南為長沙灣。李屋村與鄭屋村就在山腳處。

After World War II, the population of HK increased tremendously with an influx of immigrants. Those who could not afford rental fees built squatter settlements on hillsides. Around Christmas of 1953, a massive fire that broke out in the Shek Kip Mei squatter area lasted for over 5 hours and left more than 50K people homeless. The Government launched an emergency plan to construct large-scale resettlement estates at Shek Kip Mei, Tai Hang Tung, and Sham Shui Po to house the victims.

二次大戰後，移民湧入，香港人口劇增，家貧不能負擔租金者只可依山建寮屋。1953 年聖誕節前後，石硤尾寮屋區發生大火，持續五個多小時，五萬多人無家可歸。政府隨即興建29座「H」型徙置大廈，為有需要人士提供租金低廉的住屋。

When construction workers were leveling a hill slope at the end of Tonkin St. to make way for the development of Lei Cheung Uk Estate in August 1955, they found a tomb that the Government soon closed off and invited professor F. S. Drake, Chair of the Chinese Department at the Univ. of HK, to carry out excavation project. The Public Works Dept. also assisted in the excavation, photo taking, and surveying.

1955年8月，工人在興建李鄭屋鸷，須夷平東京街北端的山坡時，發現了這座古墓。 當局隨即封閉墓穴， 並邀請香港大學中文系主任林仰山教授與該校師生發掘清理，工務局也協助挖掘，並負責攝影測繪工作。

The Tomb was built inside a hill slope about 13 meters above the present sea level. It was once very close to the seashore – less than 500 meters away. Following a series of reclamation works and the building of the West Kowloon Expressway with related infrastructures during the construction of new Chek Lap Kok airport, the Tomb is now almost 2000 meters from the shore.

古墓本建於高出海平面13 公尺的山坡內，墓朝西南向海；原本非常接近海邊，但由於香港人多次填海造地，加上在興建赤鱲角機場期間，有西九龍快速道路及大規模基建的工程，使古墓與海岸線的距離由原本不到500公尺，增至接近2000 公尺。

* 博物館內的圖，清楚的顯示出香港人向天借的土地以及漢墓地理位置的變遷。

The display photo in the Museum clearly shows the changes of distance to the shore over the years.

I asked an officer whether photography is allowed; he said it’s all right. After taking a few photos, I asked him to take a picture of me. He exited through another door and returned with a lady whom he asked to help me out. I guessed he saw my big camera and felt uncomfortable to use it.

我問管理員在博物館內是否可以照相， 他說可。 拍了幾張後， 我想請他幫我拍一下， 沒想到他竟然從另一個門離開了， 回來時帶了一位大姐； 大概是看到我的相機太大了， 覺得不會用， 便請這位大姐來拍我。

After taking a picture of me, she pointed at the door that she just came through. I walked outside and saw the actual Han Tomb. In order to preserve the Tomb, the Government constructed a concrete cover on top of the Tomb after the excavation. A glass panel was mounted to seal the tomb entrance and AC and dehumidifying systems were installed inside the Tomb.

大姐拍完，指著剛才她進入的門，我從門出去，終於看到我找了半天的墓；博物館小，墓也小小的，墓外加鋪一層水泥外殼，古墓入口處並加裝了玻璃以封閉墓室， 室內也安裝空調及除濕設備。

The Tomb itself is a cross-shaped brick structure with four chambers and one entrance passage. The Front Chamber has a domed roof while the others are barrel vaulted. A total of 58 pottery and bronze objects were found. There was no human remain. According to its structure, the inscription on the bricks, and the characteristics of the funerary objects, it is believed that the Tomb was built in the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220 CE).

漢室以磚砌成呈十字形，由四個墓室及一條羨道組成； 出土文物共58件，包括陶製的炊煮器、盛食器和貯藏器，以及銅製的碗、盆、鏡和鈴等； 墓內並沒有人骨。歷史學家從磚石上的字刻和內容推斷，古墓建於東漢時代 (公元25至220年)。

In December 1988, the Tomb was declared a monument, under the protection of the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance; the site was officially named “Lei Cheung Uk Han Tomb Museum.”

1988年 12月古墓被宣佈為法定古蹟，並定名為「李鄭屋漢墓博物館」。現由香港歷史博物館管理。

* This is what opened to the public.

這大概就是遊客可以看到的部分

The lady followed me and asked to take a few more pictures of me in front of the Tomb. How very nice of her! I wanted to have a photo with her but figured that the officer would not feel comfortable. There was another visitor inside the Museum so I asked him to help out. 

大姐跟著我進到墓園，便主動要再替我拍幾張，好熱心呀！我想跟她合影，不好意思請剛開始那位管理員，正好博物館內有了第二位參觀者，便請他幫忙。

I then asked them how to get to West Kowloon Center. This visitor, who turned out to be a neighbor, I believed, showed me on the brochure map how to get there. They were all quite friendly and I felt I started to like HK.

臨去之前，我問他們如何到西九龍中心，這位參觀者拿了博物館印發的小單子，在地圖上多畫了幾條街，教我怎麼去；原來他不是觀光客，應該是鄰近的阿伯吧！

I was about to leave, the lady pointed me to a gallery that houses some artifacts. 

要離開時，大姐又拉拉我，指著裡面，我進到一個小展示廳，是陳列出土文物之處。

Among the artifacts that were unearthed were 1 stove model, 2 house models, 2 granary models, and 2 well models. In the photo above should be models of a house and a granary. House models are in L-shape.

* 出土文物包括一個陶灶、兩間陶屋、兩個陶蒼、和兩個陶井；我想圖片上模型應是一間陶屋、一間陶倉。陶屋呈L形。這些文物有助了解古代香港居民的生活起居。

Honestly, the Museum is so small that it is hardly a tourist attraction. So why did I choose to go there? Well, I am a museum goer to begin with.

I got a ticket to Cantonese Opera that night; the theater was by MTR (metro) Kwai Fong station. Since I had to go west on  metro Tsuen Wan Line, I figured I would just head west and stopped by Cheung Sha Wan station.

為什麼到深水步呢? 我先到文化中心去買泉州偶戲的票， 原本還想看齣粵劇，但發現只是清唱便作罷； 我跟賣票的先生國粵英夾雜後， 他告訴我當晚在葵青劇院有一場粵劇，我決定去看看。劇院在地鐵荃灣線上的荃芳站出口，反正都要往西行， 我乾脆就先在長沙灣站下來晃晃。

I ended up seeing the daily life of HK residents and meeting friendly people along the way. For me, that’s much more rewarding than shopping in the malls, which HK is famous for and which I could probably do in the U.S. or many other places anyway.

結果看到了本地人的溜鳥與下棋生活 (跟台北國父紀念館很相似)，還遇到友善的香港人，對於不太熱衷血拼的我，反而有一絲真實的體會與感動。

Museum open hours: Mon-Sat:10am to 1pm, 2pm to 6pm, Sun & holiday1-6pm, closed on Thursdays, free admission.
博物館開放時間: 星期一~六為 10am ~ 1pm, 2pm ~ 6pm, 週末假期為1-6pm, 星期四休館; 免費

Transportation: MTR Cheung Sha Wan, Exit A3, going north on Tonkin St. for 5~10 minutes.

交通：由長沙灣地鐵站A3出口左轉入東京街，步行5~10分鐘可達。

(resources from the Museum display and various web sites - for information only & 本文是從許多網站上的資訊與博物館內的資料綜合而成，如有相同之處，純粹是想把博物館介紹給大家，若有錯誤請更正)